Parrot Training for Dummies. How To Remove The Fear. A Simple Technique That Will Have Your Parrot B

Published: 06th March 2009
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Hello fellow Parrot lovers. I discovered a parrot training technique at home recently that I just had share with you all.

You see, my girlfriend got this beautiful little cockatiel a few months back. She was hoping for a nice chirpy little friend to sit and play with of an evening.

All did not go according to plan. The little bird, now known as Mali, would just go crazy, squawking, screaming and lashing out if my girlfriend ever dared put her hands in the cage or tried to handle him. It was quite a show. The idea of sitting together, all cozy-like with her new feathery friend, soon went up in smoke.

She was upset, scared and didn't know what to do. I suppose I didn't help the situation much calling him "Mali the Terrible" all the time. In my defense he was a little git (or so I thought).

So, feeling a little guilty, I started searching around for something that would help them both to get on better. And I found some parrot training ideas that were very different to everything else out there. The ideas where all based on using the birds own instinct, nothing about needing an intelligent bird or getting them at an early age. It didn't matter how dumb or old they were, it would work.

I had nothing to lose so gave my girlfriend the techniques and she started straight away.

I noticed the improvement almost immediately. It was pretty amazing; within mere days they became the best of friends. The little fellow would sit calm as day on her hand, just begging to be pet.

She taught him to mimic and whistle songs and sounds; they genuinely had a damn great time together. I was so impressed with some of the things I saw her doing I had to share something; A parrot training technique that is incredibly easy but very effective.

A way to convince your parrot to willingly overcome his fears of you... ...through instinct. It doesn't matter how nice you are, even if you've always treated him VERY nice, it makes no difference (as you're probably all to aware).

If you want to train your parrot to willingly step up when you want, or let you pet him, you're going to want to use this amazing strategy. A strategy that is powerful enough to convince your parrot to come to you when you offer a command, instead of you always forcing your parrot to do things.

You'll need a way to make him willing to overcome his own fear, on his own FREE will. key phrase "his FREE Will"... NOT yours ;-)

You see, when my girlfriend started training Mali, she really wanted him to like being pet and to show affection with 100% devotion.

Because, as I said, every time she tried to reach in his cage and get him to step up, he'd lose it. And if she pressed the matter she got nipped. So, this was a technique she had to try straight away. What she first discovered is that Mali is, like most parrots are, scared to death of their owners. And that's why all parrots bite, out of fear and mistrust, not because they are aggressive.

So she started this using technique, a way convince Mali himself to walk over and step on her hand (away from the cage) on his own. Instead of her chasing him around causing him (and her) stress.


The Very First Step


The first important thing to understand is the thinking process your bird will be going through during any parrot training and how to take advantage of that process. Getting your parrot to tolerate you is one thing, but getting a parrot that likes you petting him, or will step up for you is a WHOLE other ballgame.

Remember, your parrot is fearful of you...

The second you try to reach for his feet to pick him up, or start scratching behind his head is probably going to get you nipped or bitten very quickly... and any trust you have built up will be


So how did my girlfriend and her bird bridge this gap?

She had to convince the parrot to come to her on his own -- and that means you can't force ANYTHING! Period! She did this by using a neat little reward system, meaning we need to give your parrot a reward that is MORE important and enticing than his fear of being touched by you. And to offer that treat as a reward for your parrot when he starts to come closer to you.

STOP! You have to do something else first. Start the parrot on a diet (well not a diet as such, but you will see what I mean shortly). You see, most parrot owners leave food in their bird's cage all day long and your parrot can eat all he wants whenever he wants.

This is a big mistake we learned the hard way of course. Logically, when you think about it; say you've got a parrot who's been stuffing his face all day long, and then you try to offer him a treat as a reward for coming to you on his own free will...

...Not a lot is going to happen, since he's only got to hop down to his food bowl for his own treats. So the trick was all in setting up a special parrot training diet for the Parrot that gives him all the nutrients and calories he needs to stay in good health, while also getting him hungry two to three times a day. And it was this process of getting the bird a tad hungry that gave him the motivation to be willing to step out of his comfort zone a little bit to earn a treat.

Don't think this is food deprivation... and DON'T try food deprivation.

If you deprive a bird of its food you will get an unwanted effect; it will start to associate it's deep hunger pains with training. Because every time it's super hungry it has to train. And you will get nowhere fast.

So make sure to follow the instructions below carefully, and remember that your goal is to only create a mild level of hunger twice a day to be used as a technique to make a food reward extra motivating.


Here's How To Set Up Your Birds training Diet:


To start off with, we switched Mali over to a low sugar, organic pelleted diet. We found out (again the hard way) all those seed, and nut mixes out on the market are complete crap, and provide WAY too much fat for your birds diet. These high seed and nut mix diets are a MAJOR cause of the increase in avian tumors and shortened lifespans, as well as organ failure in pet birds.

Once you order the food, here's how to set up your parrot's feeding schedule;

    1. First of all, establish how much food your parrot eats in a day. Do this by purchasing a scale and weighing your bird's food for the day.Let's use round numbers to make this easy to understand, but keep in mind that all birds will vary drastically in their daily food consumption.

Now, make sure that the amount of food that you are weighing is more food than you know your parrot could eat in a day.

    2. Put that amount of food, let's say it was 30 grams, in your bird's cage right before you go to bed. Then, wait until right before you go to bed the next night, (a 24 hour period) to take the food out of your bird's cage, and weigh the amount of food left in your bird's food dish.

    3. After a complete day of food being in your bird's cage, let's say your bird's food, weighed 16 grams. This means that your bird ate 14 grams of food in a 24 hour period. Keep in mind that you will want to do this process for 2-3 more days to get a really good feel for the amount of food your bird eats on a daily average. Make sure you keep a record of your birds food consumption

    4. Everything is done in very small steps with small bird and parrot training, and this first step is the same. You now know that your bird eats 14 grams of food a day. So you now are going to only feed your bird 12 grams of food before you go to bed. But We Will Not Starve The Bird, That is Not The Lesson Here!

    5. After you feed your bird 12 grams of food the next evening, you are going to feed it the other 2 grams of food that you took out of his diet, in the form of his favorite treats; usually sunflower seeds, dried banana chips or peanuts.

    6. Do this by weighing out 2 grams of your bird's favorite treat, let's say, sunflower seeds. Take the bird out of his cage, and feed your bird his special treats by hand.


Problems You May Encounter:


    A. If your bird won't eat the treats, he could be afraid of the hand that is feeding him the seeds. In which case spend time calming down your bird, and try feeding him again, or....

    B. Your bird is not hungry and has been overeating even after you cut his food down to 8 grams. This is not unusual because people usually over-feed their parrots. Don't despair, just simply stop feeding your bird the treats, and when you fill up his food bowl for the night, only give him 7 grams of food, a gram less than the night before.


Try This Over The Next Few Days


    1. Establish a training diet that for your parrot so that your bird will eat treats out of your hand at night when he is hungry.

    2. Keep in mind that this is not cruel in any way. You will still be feeding the bird the same amount of food in a day. It's just breaking it up into meals. This will be the foundation for motivating your parrot. (Do you class making your partner or children wait for dinner time as starving them? I don't think so)

Getting this training diet set up changed my girlfriends relationship in ways I could never imagine. Your bird will start wanting to cuddle with you, bury his head in your finger tips begging for pets, or cuddling in the folds of your clothes while you sit in your favorite chair.

All it takes is to bridge the gap between you and your parrot, so you can start to reward him for overcoming his fears.

If you want to learn hundreds of these unique tips and training techniques in extreme detail, for any kind of parrot or bird, take a look at the same information I got my girlfriend here Bird Tricks. There are some excellent free parrot training videos over there you must claim.

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